The so-called “Wang Girl” is a legend in New York, 20 years and still going. She went dark for a while as the designer dealt with allegations of sexual misconduct, but Wang embraced the spotlight fully Friday night with a matured look.
The first image guests were treated to upon entering the Citizen’s Savings Bank was the opposite of his usual gritty downtown cool: Martha Stewart playing Mahjong. Wang’s mother is a master at the game and this collection was a tribute to her, and women like Stewart, arguably the OG Wang girls of their generation.
“We’re really celebrating alpha females and the different facets and dualities of that meaning,” he said after congratulatory hugs from another alpha female, Cardi B, backstage. Wang continued: “Intentionally, we wanted to show one silhouette, one length, make it very concise, and explore it through all the different elements of a wardrobe.”
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Channeling Martha, Wang went preppy, showing stiff ultrashort shirtdresses layered underneath laser-cut argyle vests. Grey bonded tailoring was equally stiff (and short) and came slashed at the hip, adding shape through subtraction. With her steel briefcase, this new Wang girl may clock-in to work on time, but she still parties hard and probably forgot her pants on her way to the office.
Wang talked about introducing “convertibility,” pointing to Cardi’s chocolate faux fur, which made its debut on the runway as a hulking coat in one exit that was removed for the next, revealing a black body-con dress with the same puffy fur hem intact.
He also wanted to show power doesn’t have to equate to black, leather and studs, though there was plenty. Seemingly sweet cardigan twinsets were done the Wang way in melted knitted lace and crocheted metal yarn that read like chainmail. “Our femininity is defined by sharp edges,” he said. Billowy Watteau backs and ponchos, mama Wang’s go-to piece, were also a departure. “Chinese women are really into sun protection and rainwear, so why not explore that in organza or latex?” her son asked.
Looking forward to the next 20 years, there’s some undefined brand expansion coming underneath the Wang umbrella called Wang Contemporary. “It’s not a foundation, not a gallery, not a cultural center…” We’ll have to wait and see.