Oscar Ouyang didn’t rush to the runway after graduating from Central Saint Martins two years ago. He instead first secured Dover Street Market in London as his stockist and started working out a supply chain that could accommodate his needs as the brand scales. The brand has 14 stockists for the spring 2026 season, with most of them in Asia.
Now, with the BFC’s Newgen support, the knitwear-focused designer from Beijing kicked off Friday with a runway debut that felt fresh, smart and considered.
The collection, titled “Don’t Shoot the Messenger,” played with the idea of messenger birds and what happens when the letters they carry aren’t delivered. The floor was covered in these letters, a cost-effective but impactful set by Gary Card.
The models donned feathery showpieces that were painstakingly patched together to create ethereal plumed collars and hems. Ouyang reassured backstage that the feathers were ethically sourced from the meat industry.
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But don’t get carried away with the styling tricks; the designer showed real business potential with summery knits made from breathable linen and silk yarn, stylishly cut wide-leg trousers, chino shorts, hunting jackets, and custom Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars with wild feather arrangements.
The show might have played around with the idea of letters lost in transit, but the message came through loud and clear: a new proposition of masculinity rooted in Chinese sensibility and contemporary Western influences with commercial viability.