A pair of voluminous sequined dresses greets you upon entering Naeem Khan’s showroom. The first is a blue caftan-like gown; the second, a sweet babydoll number in jeweled magenta. They signaled the holiday mood of the collection and epitomize the more carefree approach Khan has taken recently to eveningwear.
There was variety with this thread of ease in nuanced ways: with silhouettes (glittery pajama-like sets), fabric (stretchy lightweight dresses with gold embroidery), and with embellishments (feathers and fringe that are more sparse and fall away from the body). He lightened the load of feathers and fringe, particularly, not only to make the clothes more flattering on the body, but to give a sense of flirty freedom with more space to move. Everything was featherweight: fluid drawstring pants that were surprisingly formal, sequined yet elegant Halston-esque dresses, and caftans with seams creating a fitted dress silhouette within consuming fabric. In Naeem’s world, the old caftan is dead.
He’s made considerable efforts to draw in younger customers, this season with separates that are refined, playful, easy to wear and easy to pack — including lacey Victorian blouses and button down dresses that could be styled open over trousers. The magenta babydoll dress, though, was infinitely alluring and could be styled in myriad ways.