Showing her first pre-collection in New York made sense for Christelle Kocher, not only because it maximizes exposure to press and buyers, but because casual American sportswear of the Eighties is a big part of the collection. Oversize polos and track pants and jackets are two of Kocher’s signature pieces, though she treats them in a very un-casual way, working in luxe feminine fabrics such as satin and putting a godet hem on an oversize polo dress. “I like the really French clichés and American sportswear in the Eighties,” said Kocher. “I wanted the comfort and casualness but with a French attitude.”
At a time when streetwear as luxury is ubiquitous, Kocher’s work stood out for its lack of irony and genuine chic. She worked in a joyful, feminine palette of turquoise, pink, orange and white, which made the giant polo dresses, and leggings with artful embroidery down the leg look pretty and elegant. Details — feathers, graphic floral embroideries of leather petals and beads, and denim with printed with tiny suits from a deck of cards — were beautifully done.
Kocher bills her line as unisex. There were great trenches and tuxedos, but not everything had an obvious athletic touch. Soft, simple dresses with lingerie and lace details also had subtle sports banding around the back. And a ruffled logo polka dot range was classic French lady.
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See more from the 2018 Resort Collections:
Oscar de la Renta Resort 2018: Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim worked to keep the Oscar de la Renta loyalists happy while pitching to a new audience.
Narciso Rodriguez Resort 2018: Modernist couture references sculpted Rodriguez’s purist vision for resort.
3.1 Phillip Lim Resort 2018: A vacation to Bali and Jackie Nickerson’s book “Farm” brought a revived global vibe to the lineup.
Tory Burch Resort 2018: Friends and style icons Jackie O and Princess Elizabeth of Toro were Burch’s main muses.
Coach 1941 Resort 2018: Resort hits stores around holiday season, and Stuart Vevers’ collection was ready to party.