A year after David Koma was installed as creative director at Mugler, he designed his most directional lineup yet. He’s been off to a quiet start at the house, focusing on sexy tailoring and anatomical cut-out details on clothes that have felt a bit blah. For resort, he energized the offer with graphic Op Art patterns — black and white stripes, swirls, color blocks and vortex patterns — that gave the sensual suiting and gowns some visual grit.
To accent the cut-outs he used silver and classic pearls, for example, on the collarbone and hip of a jumpsuit, and around the waist and arms of a bicolor jacket. A group of pastels was intended as a commercial alternative to the black and white, which made sense commercially, though the graphic optics outshone the sorbet-colored stuff.