Fendi continues to inject more romance into its signature aesthetic and the result for pre-fall was a standout collection that pushed the brand’s inclination toward contemporary functionality into new, more whimsical and dreamlike territory. Moving away from the severe silhouettes that creative director Karl Lagerfeld has favored in the past, the clothes were infused with a delicate dynamism. Flared dresses, including an embossed silk style and an organza and lace number punctuated by 3-D bows, were cut shorter on the front to define new airy volumes. A charming play on illusion was obtained through the print on a wool and alpaca robe coat, which featured a pattern that resembled lynx fur. Despite the optical effect, its collar was crafted from real chinchilla fur.
Fendi’s skills in the treatment of fur emerged in the collection, with options ranging from the dramatic — such as a two-tone cape mixing short and long mink and showing a geometric intarsia motif on the front — to lively and feminine, including a coat crafted by stitching together mink strips and enriched with multicolored intarsia flowers, which were also sculpted to obtain a cross-stitching effect. Its collar was dyed in a striped motif, a refreshed version of the label’s iconic Pequin pattern. This was also splashed on a silk cadi dress embellished with grosgrain ribbons.
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Despite the richness and opulence, Fendi delivered clothes that balanced the emotional and rational, the eccentric and real. A hyper decorative approach was reserved for the accessories collection, which Silvia Venturini Fendi developed as an ode to the joy and beauty of fashion. The girly flower applications and Boho-chic fringes; the ironic and quirky fur charms; signature bags — such as the “Peekaboo,” as well as newly introduced styles, including the “Back to School,” a messenger bag that easily turns into a backpack — were all conceived as luxurious pieces able to bring a touch of fun to everyday life.