Junichi Abe pushed things forward, continuing his playful experiment with sizes — he appropriates classics like checked suit jackets and coats, making them extra large. He also works with unusual layering, and slightly gauche color mixes like muted grays and browns next to stripes of bright teals or red. There were plenty of examples of his signature optical tricks — series of extra flaps on Windbreaker-style jackets made to look like more than one garment. But on the whole, the collection felt trimmer this season. Rearranged sweaters came as cardigans with several layers or a slightly skewed V-neck with mismatched stripes of color — different on each side.
Faux animal skin was snake this time, crafted into a flashy, crimson overcoat — a crowd-pleaser, no doubt. The clothing was shot in real life, the cheerful street scenes added to the collection’s appeal. Playing with different registers of funky, classic and odd, Abe worked in his comfort zone, building a unique lineup by rearranging age-old staples.