The feel-good vibes of the Summer of Love pervaded Mike Amiri’s coed offering for spring. Tactile fabrics like velvet and chiffon in a rainbow of pastel shades just begged to be touched in this mellow, romantic lineup that was a major step away from the grungier ethos of his past collections.
Soft tailoring played a much bigger part — testament perhaps to the buzzy brand’s collaboration with Renzo Rosso’s OTB holding, which recently took a minority stake in Amiri, and the use of Italian workshops. It took forms including a pantsuit in mint green Lurex jacquard and loose tuxedo pants in baby blue with glittering side stripes, paired with a double-breasted waistcoat over a crochet tank top. The outerwear was also strong, as in a trenchcoat in cornflower blue corduroy, another, sleeveless, in mint green snakeskin-effect leather.
Flared pants came in velvet, corduroy or suede, with front ties for the feminine designs, while pale knits added to the overall delicate feel of the collection.
You May Also Like
Tie-dyed tops — a satin bomber with guitar-strap edging was a highlight — and a denim jacket painted with the face of Jimi Hendrix were clear nods toward psychedelia, but elsewhere, the references were less literal and all the more appealing.
Shimmering guitar-strap embroideries were reprised from fall, diagonally crossing the body of tailored jackets, and much like his drum-shaped handbag, reminded onlookers that musical references — the finale was set to the sound of The Beatles “While My Guitar Gently Weeps” — are never far from Amiri’s mind, even when he works in a more ethereal register.