As androgyny and streetwear are leaving their marks all over fashion right now, Glenn Martens is keeping his finger well on the pulse. Genderless, after all, is his native territory. Distorted proportions and an often girlish palette based on romantic pastel colors rocked the runway set on a boat by the banks of the river Seine.
There was a series of worn-out knit sweaters with large kimono sleeves and tailored jackets so bulky they could never box their way into a shareholder meeting, but would likely make a point on the street. Pants came in ill-fitted shapes — either too long or too wide — and were held by belts worn above the actual waistline.
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Martens, who was short-listed for the 2016 LVMH Prize, also played with denim — a strong category for the label — infusing one varsity leather jacket with braided denim and knit inlays to great effect. Denim bottoms boasted quirky, turned-over cuffs, which the designer said could be adjusted anyway one likes for “a little pirate vibe,” while a satiny looking pink denim ensemble was actually bomb-sprayed, he revealed.
A little too off-kilter were a run of body-hugging tops made of silk floral cutouts trapped between two layers of tulle — seen on both girls and boys.