While Boris Bidjan Saberi’s spring collection still contained a strong dose of military references, more classic sartorial elements were blended into the mix than in the past. The cult German-born designer kept layering garments, piling up elongated jackets and shirts with low-slung jumpsuits, shorts or cropped trousers. These were occasionally topped with a finely cut blazer. Although the color palette — made primarily in cottons, leathers and knits — was often sober (think grays and blacks with white) a striking cobalt blue popped up. Overall the collection had a somewhat airier feel despite models’ faces appearing shrink-wrapped under a plastic veneer.
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