A sensual charge and a little sense of danger helped Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto mark a decisive step-up of their brand with this coed spring collection, which signaled a design maturity as well as a balance between the men’s and women’s lines.
“We spent the last four years establishing what JordanLuca is in menswear, we felt it was time to explore womenswear,” said Marchetto ahead the show.
Although the duo toyed with it in the past, the attention and commitment they poured into the women’s category this season was beneficial to the overall credibility of the brand.
The starting point of the more sophisticated yet fierce aesthetic for women was the kilt, reimagined into satin pencil skirts, integrated into laced mini dresses or turned into leather coats and suits. These added to sensual printed frocks stretching over the body or draped to have excess fabric flowing on the back as the models walked down the runway. The effect was replicated in a cropped top crafted from suiting fabric and coming with matching narrow pants that made for one of the highlights.
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The unapologetic mood was enhanced by punkish touches, ranging from spikes replacing cufflinks or incorporated in high-heeled strappy sandals, up to the statement chunky chokers made with a 3D printing technique that would discourage any kiss-on-the-cheek greeting or secret whispering in the ear.
Elements seen in the female offering infiltrated the men’s wardrobe, challenging the standard of masculinity — which has been a central theme this season in Milan.
Pants came with lace inserts; mini pleated skirts reimagined the modern suit; knitted sweaters, cardigans and tank tops were cut with exaggerated necklines to enhance collarbones; 3D rose embellishments bloomed on a leather biker jacket, and even harnesses were stripped down from their usual connotation to embrace softness since they were made of thin satin and lace strips to layer over shirts and coats.
Like last season, the overall silhouette was marked by what the designers described as “bulldog” shoulder, which lent trench coats and blazer jackets the impression of bulk and forward movement to metaphorically telegraph men’s need to keep going with determination in face of the challenges ahead. Now they can count on fierce women by their side for extra support, too.