Sébastien Meunier did justice to the house founder’s punk rock, romantic spirit while bringing it somewhere new.
The disheveled poet-style elongated coats’ trailing straps were steeped in the house’s DNA, with the extra roping on jacket shoulders adding some drama, infusing a period aesthetic into the look.
But Meunier’s silhouettes also had a slightly louche, gender-bending feeling to them, playing on transparency with a run of delicate lace Victorian shirtings with ruffle necks and elongated sleeves. One sheer black tank sported the word “L’Avenir” (French for “future”).
Slouchy asymmetric crochet knits and voluminous shaggy fur vests in red and emerald added texture and softness. The outerwear was superstrong, especially a flowing topcoat in brushed herringbone that sailed by.
Meunier also experimented with proportions, pairing a sheer top and ultracropped vest and supersize baggy pants with the elongated topcoats and vests, also weaving in a younger attitude.