Sarah Burton loves theatrical flourish, and for fall she drew inspiration from the drama king himself, Oscar Wilde, both during his London heyday and his sad, final years living in exile in Paris. It was a lineup of lavish clothing, dotted here and there with some artfully distressed pieces — and definitely not for the low-key man.
Peacocks — not the men parading to be photographed outside the shows but images of the bird and feathers that adorned Wilde’s home — picked their way elegantly across the collection. Their figures and plumes were embroidered in gold bullion on a tailcoat, a long camel coat, and a show-stopping black cape, while feathers were drawn in a colorful jacquard for a tailored jacket, or stitched in black onto the collar of a white shirt. A hand-brushed mohair coat with a blurry blue and turquoise feather pattern was among the standouts.
Peacocks were only part of the story: McQueen’s creative director created a cluster of statement coats, ranging from a hefty floor-length black shearling to a red military ceremonial style; a textured, carpet bag one, and a white cotton canvas driving coat with detachable cuffs and collar.
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There was simpler fare, too, in the form of knee-length Edwardian coats, one done in egg yolk yellow with a blue collar, and suits made from houndstooth check, plaid or paisley. Burton nodded to Wilde’s final impoverished days, with a long and baggy mohair sweater, filled with mothlike holes and distressed around the edges. Drama comes in many forms.