What a difference a season makes. Edward Crutchley, Kim Jones’ protégé, has gone from zero wholesale clients to being stocked by some of the world’s most prestigious boutiques. Which has clearly boosted the designer’s confidence because his third presentation at London Fashion Week Men’s was his best and most commercial yet, while not compromising on the big ideas he’s become known for.
An advertisement from the Seventies showing a man in a leotard was the starting point for Crutchley, who loves a bad taste reference. His fine rib-knit leotards, in collaboration with Johnstons of Elgin, came in earthy shades of khaki and mocha, teamed with matching thigh-high socks, and shimmery satin bomber jackets inspired by late Renaissance portraiture.
Shapes were relaxed, with drop-shoulder velvet tracksuits in camel and dark chocolate, and a nice velvet robe draped over a louche set of mismatching silk pajamas. Intarsia knitted separates featured a whimsical pattern inspired by Japanese Noh opera.