Ximonlee combined handmade details with a more pragmatic approach to construction for his first official men’s wear presentation, following a showroom debut last season.
Pure silicone was poured over jackets and coats in rectangular slabs, trapping folds in the fabric. “I always dream about drowning, so I tried to find a way to conceal the garment and make it really uncomfortable,” the designer explained. Hand-painted stripes gave oversize jackets and coats an artisanal feel.
However, there was a fresh ease to roomy pants and sweaters in a wide ribbed knit, while trenchcoats in fabrics ranging from acid-washed denim to a dark, rust-colored flecked wool made for dashing variations on Lee’s trademark extreme silhouettes.
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