Is it a shirt or a cardigan? A blouse or sweater? Knit or shearling? You can’t really tell. But that is precisely the magic of Sacai’s quirky and compelling universe.
Designer Chitose Abe mixed and blended contrasting textures and conjured multiple layers for fall. Her ingredients? The leather front of a perfecto jackets and silk sleeves (which normally would form the lining) sewn together for an appealing new take on the biker jacket. Elsewhere, a luscious shirt in padded oxblood velvet peaked out from a bulky aviator jacket, done up with a generous knit collar and fringed scarf bottom.
The two-in-one formula also worked on a run of duffle coats boasting two separate fronts — one in shearling, the other in chunky canvas cotton. Pants were straight and more fitted as they came in nylon, knit or cotton, and occasionally sporting funky bandana prints. It was a happy mix, and Abe had it firmly under control.
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Each time a new look appeared on the runway, a new sound was added to the soundtrack, which started off with the simple beating of a human heart and ended with a full-fledged musical arrangement. The concept reflected “Liife,” the collection’s title, with the extra “i” standing for “ai,” meaning love in Japanese.