Philippe Paubert mastered the preppy Italian vibe with ease in Emanuel Ungaro’s first full men’s collection in several years, tapping the label’s codes in tailoring and imagery from its archives to create a lively offering.
Indeed, the freelance designer, in charge of Ungaro’s men’s collections since the brand made a soft reentry into the category last year, worked alongside Ungaro on men’s wear for most of the Nineties. Using muted shades such as navy, gray, brown and burgundy, he paired tailored jackets in soft Italian check wools with polka-dot patterns and floral prints on shirts, knitwear and scarves, while slim cotton pants were either simple or given a subtle twist using patterned jacquards.
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The collection included a full range of accessories made under license with Italian firm Principe, including shoes, belts, bags and small leather goods.
Ungaro is also targeting the made-to-measure market with a range of fabrics designed by Paubert in partnership with Italy’s Marzotto, samples of which have been sent out to around 2,000 tailors worldwide.