Kean Etro looked to Walt Whitman’s fascination with the living world and to his “Leaves of Grass” collection of poems for this colorful, ragged-edged collection of tailored clothing and chunky knits.
“No animals were harmed” making the collection, Etro stressed backstage, pointing to animal patterns that had been cleverly picked out in wool jacquard — leopard for a belted trench, zebra for a jacket — and to the subtle print of falling leaves that covered a check suit.
The collection — like Whitman’s poems — was upbeat and abuzz with energy. There was knitwear galore, in shades of cinnamon, teal, bottle green, or magenta. Turtlenecks came with a chunky cable running down the front or with fraying edges — as if they were precious heirlooms — and military-style embellishment on the sleeves.
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A gray and forest green drummer boy jacket reinforced the collection’s youthful, flower-child mood, as did a paisley coat and an army jacket with embroidered patterns on the arms that resembled a geometric tattoo design.
A tough black bomber with gold filigree adorning the cuffs closed the show, an outing that Etro has every right to celebrate and sing about.