Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s latest Kenzo collection was strong on visual stimuli, which was expected.
Running the gamut from primitive scribbles to fantasy logos and colorful smudges, splashed on almost every look in the lineup, they whisked through the corridors of the nifty new Philharmonie de Paris by architect Jean Nouvel. No doubt, they will become Instagram hits, and no doubt they will make a speedy segue to the streets.
But the collection was spread thin on designer fashion, feeling more like a contemporary line. Parkas, military coats and thick intarsia sweaters, often layered, provide great variety with much commercial appeal, but it was hard to make sense of it all. Matched with heavy boots boasting XXL-stiches (picture Frankenstein in “Penny Dreadful”), anti-Establishment London sprang to mind, just before this punk bunch changed into silver-foiled capes and astronaut space pants. It felt random.
Lim called it a “tribe of individuals.”
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“There is this idea of protection and survival,” she said. “We kind of like that you can’t tell what it is. It has a sense of discovery in it.” And then?