An air of restraint — and renewal — blew through this collection of glamorous, luxe classics, which was a departure from the often wild and irreverent lineups of past seasons. There were no tanned muscles on show, no flash of underpants, no bright colors or extreme styling — and what a joy it was. This collection was all about the clothes — and the materials: mink, piles of cashmere, buttery leather and indulgent knits. “This is the wardrobe of the new Versace world, the pieces a man should wear to be his best,” said Donatella Versace.
She sent out a new suit with a tighter fit, more constructed shoulder and shorter jacket that came in solids including eggplant, gray and cocoa, or in classic checks or pinstripes. Cashmere coats were long and lean, and finished with fur collars and shiny gold buttons, while knits — including cashmere leggings and ribbed blousons with fur collars — hugged models’ curves. Long, skinny sweaters were worn layered under shorter jackets.
Versace played with proportion, balancing fitted jackets with wide-leg denim trousers, or pairing leggings with long, chunky Aran cardigans or fur-trimmed leather parkas. Fur took a starring role in this new Versace world: There were mink coats, short and long, with or without hoods, and one voluminous black shearling that could put the Yeti to shame. There was a Nineties vibe in some of the combos as well as the ath-leisure trend that continues to dominate the runways, although it’s hard to visualize someone wearing the leggings in real life. But while the Versace showmanship may be gone, something better has taken its place — a wardrobe.