Having channeled the Eighties for spring, Simon Holloway moved on to the following decade for Hogan’s fall collection. More precisely, the “late Nineties — think New York, gym-to-street, ath-luxury,” said Holloway, who continued his meticulous fabrics research. Standouts were camel hair and cashmere wool military coats, with somewhat oversize and soft shoulders and contrasting black thermal-printed details with a leather texture; a boxy patent-leather jacket lined in shearling, and a cashmere and cotton sweat suit. “The idea is to take extreme classic looks and juxtapose them over gym clothes,” Holloway said. Hogan’s bread and butter — accessories — included a roomy backpack and high-soled, urban sneakers.