Studs, safety pins, zippers, chains and military insignia — Andreas Melbostad’s offering for fall was strong on hardware, heralding the collection’s punk rock message. These elements were liberally applied to striped collegiate blazers, perfectos, overcoats and uniform jackets — flashy, but hardly original.
Bottoms were densely worked, too. Melbostad went for distressed denim in black, gray and blue, some of which was patchworked tone-on-tone. These had an interesting, edgy feel, and underscored the Milan season’s focus on texture. Elsewhere, the designer applied zippers galore to skinny cargo pants, or positioned them at the lower back of jeans — whether for decoration or comfort didn’t matter: It added a welcomed twist.
Melbostad, who has been heading the company’s men’s wear team since 2013, has yet to define a firm signature.