Tomas Maier continues to exalt haute slacker chic, adding pull-on pants in rumpled corduroy and droopy, faded dungaree jeans into his off-duty fashion universe.
“This is not about meticulous dressing,” the German designer deadpanned in his show notes, citing the virtues of clothes that have “lived a life.” These included a “frosted” peacoat that looked in dire need of dry cleaning, and linen-blend trenchcoats and pants that haven’t been near an iron.
Maier has been influential with his shrugged-on, laid-back approach to luxury, parading fleece tracksuits on the runway alongside double-breasted, checkered suits with peak lapels, like the one Bottega’s new chief executive officer Carlo Alberto Beretta wore in the front row, his set off with a turtleneck and a pocket square.
On the runway, Maier went for more haphazard combinations, accessorizing one dockworker ensemble with an ostrich carryall that must run close to five figures, and putting spongy sweatpants under pristine suede bomber jackets and sharply tailored herringbone blazers.
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In this context, items stood out — corduroy blazers, chunky and intarsia knits and classic camel and toggle coats — along with Maier’s sophisticated color sense, a meld of dark shades sparked with vivid yellow, purple and rust.