Rory Parnell Mooney is a London name to watch. One of three emerging talents selected for this showcase, established 10 years ago by Topman and Fashion East, this Irish designer gave a luxurious spin to Goth style, cutting his dystopian, monastic layers in lustrous fabrics, artfully slashing sleeves and shredding hems and seams. Drenched hair, nose rings, dangling bondage straps and a booming Kraftwerk soundtrack could not drown out a sophisticated hand at work.
Nocomede Talavera mined similar fashion turf, piling oversized tunics and elongated sweatshirts over rave pants in a streetwise take on Nineties styles. Like Parnell Mooney, Talavera favored Japanese shapes, referencing kimono and judo jackets and winding his backpack straps into obi-like knots.
Off-duty diner worker, or SoHo hipster? Liam Hodge’s mix of parkas, sweats, newsprint graphics, and utility aprons brought both to mind. The sandwich boards were a rare touch of silliness in this usually wild show.