In his mission to modernize Savile Row, Carlo Brandelli keeps tweaking, reducing and repurposing the building blocks of tailoring. The bespoke suits and coats hung in his fall-winter installation propose a host of new lapel variations — “impression peak,” “baby notch” and “angle shawl” among them.
Given that brains are ingrained with only three classic collar styles, Brandelli’s innovations challenge, tease, occasionally wrong-foot and usually delight the eye. Gently squaring off the shawl lapel of a tuxedo, for example, seems to accentuate formality. A contrast seam over the heart makes you forget there is usually a breast pocket there.
“Men’s clothes should be a little more angular, a little more architectural,” Brandelli reasoned, noting that the new lapel shape has already been incorporated into his classic ready-to-wear and sportswear – and prompted a rush of bespoke orders, suggesting men are ready to embrace new variations.
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“Nobody has addressed this in 60, 70, 80 years,” said Brandelli, who returned to the brand last year after a five-year absence. “It’s one of the reasons I came back: I thought men’s wear design had so much further to go.”