Carpeting his runway venue with shreds of purple rubber, Jonathan Anderson staged a Seventies show that was inimitably his in its borderline awkward proportions and drab colors. Backstage, Anderson said his research hopped from the Fifties through the Eighties, “mixing everything up to the point where references don’t matter. It’s just about a look.”
Yet the decade that taste forgot came to the fore in slim leather trenchcoats, pointy collars on shoulders and striped or color-blocked “Brady Bunch” knitwear. Everything was shown with slim, high-waist dress pants intentionally slit to flare and flap like French shirt cuffs. “I like the idea of the floppiness,” the designer enthused.
Not since Christian Lacroix’s heyday has a runway seen such big and eclectic jewel-like buttons, here punctuating flaring, fingertip-length coats. Dramatic, fringed scarves added to the gender-bending spirit of the collection and telegraphed Anderson’s penchant for showmanship.
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Snug shearling jackets with bibs and collars of clipped wool were exceptional, and stood out from the retro retreads.