The designers in the Fashion East group presentations are practically guaranteed to push the boundaries of men’s fashion, and this season the standout collections blurred gender lines.
Grace Wales Bonner — who cited “the Afro-American poet” and “Seventies decadence” among her inspirations — created an opulent tableau vivant, with models lounging on Afghan rugs in crushed velvet suits stitched with pearls and shells. Wales Bonner underlined the play on femininity via elaborate crystal necklaces or sparkly skullcaps that accessorized pinstripe denim jackets
Alan Crocetti took “fractured, evolving masculinities” as his touchstone, and had models wearing cropped tanks or apron-like tops and pants in pinstripe wool to showcase his jewelry, which included bolt-like gold rings and gold ear cuffs.
At the other end for the sartorial spectrum, Roxanne Farahmand’s collection had a sleek, ergonomic feel, spotlighting skin-tight cycling tops and shiny track pants, while Edward Crutchley nodded to Japanese dress rendered in a moody, masculine colors. His models were clad in samurai-like culottes and silk bomber jackets in mustard and burgundy, the jackets intricately embroidered with motifs of dragons and birds.