As the world reels from the terror attacks in France, the uniform must be a reassuring sight, connoting security and heroism. It’s also a symbol that “all men are equal in the face of duty, sharing equal honor, valor and truth,” according to Alexander McQueen’s eloquent show notes.
In a powerful and poignant show, creative director Sarah Burton also perpetuated the uniform’s enduring dignity and relevance via innovative tailoring and daring fabric choices.
Backstage, she said the Regency period informed the high, suppressed waists of suits, frock coats and officer jackets, some cut to “kick like a tailcoat” in the back. Burton magnified the pinched shapes by sometimes splicing in brocade florals in the crisscross formation of flags, the apex of the X hitting the bellybutton. At a distance, and in olive drab tones, the blooms might register as camouflage, but close up, they are poppies, the sight of which might make your chest swell or eyes well.
Interspersed were chunky army knits, neat shirts with rigid jabots and a cool navy varsity jacket-cum-blazer set off with leather sleeves.
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The show climaxed with a formal segment enlivened with strategically placed military medals sparkling proudly from arms and chests. A black hourglass coat with a white shirt and stovepipe pants was a knockout, the picture of authoritative and gracious elegance.