Nicola Brognano’s obsession with Marie Antoinette started in Paris, where he lived for three years while working at the studio of designer Giambattista Valli. Much like Sofia Coppola’s portrayal of the character, his French queen has a rebellious streak: “The modern Marie Antoinette lives in Versailles but hates its rules and constraints, so she decides to escape,” explained the 27-year-old designer, whose label is part owned by manufacturing company Paoloni, which helped launch fellow Italian brand MSGM.
Brognano’s rebel royal slipped a black nylon backpack over a pink tulle gown, which she cut to a babydoll fit, and hit the streets. She kept her gloves and bouffant sleeves, but paired them with pristine tracksuits, oversize fake leather coats and glittery kitten heels. She brought pieces of the Petit Trianon with her in the form of delicate flower prints and pink toile de jouy on long overcoats and technical trousers, as well as her favorite flower, the rose, embroidered on jackets and sweatshirts.
The pieces were all either pink, white or black, with the exception of one frothy mint green tulle dress. Brognano managed to elevate sportswear both literally — using rich taffetas to craft his down jackets and tracksuits — and figuratively: the looks were sweet and feminine, with a hint of badass attitude.