Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof took the theme of traditional German garments — “tracht” is the vocabulary — and, well, ran with it. The stronger nods came at the start: a white eyelet blouse kicked off the show, cut like a cape in the back. This was paired with short, wide-leg trousers in a red floral jacquard, and gold boots — not so folksy.
Stiletto-heeled, the lacing served as a reference to traditional wear. Some pairs rose nearly up to the thighs; ankle-length versions were worn with thick wool socks.
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On a tear, the designers swept past last season’s Zen attitude, pushing a lineup of sumptuous velvet gowns, sequined skirts, thick wool checked capes and silk moiré pieces in bright green and turquoise. Women seeking a black dress for the red carpet might want to look somewhere else, Talbot said in jest, acknowledging the exuberance of the collection. Upbeat and memorable, it carried a statement of its own — we’ll likely remember the wool socks and stilettos for some time.