Josie Natori marked the 40th anniversary of her company by creating a collection that “honored my heritage,” she said. “I’m proud of the authenticity.” Hand-painted dragons, Suzani rug patterns, embroideries of pagodas, floral and feather brocades, and intricate beading surfaced in many of her looks. The silhouettes’ provenance was also Asian — kimonos, obi sashes, Mandarin jackets, robes and tunics over pants — which were some of the most beautiful looks Natori has shown in her ready-to were collections.
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There are more jackets than in past seasons, many cut close to the body and boldly cinched with the fabulous wide leather belts Natori showed this season. Her dragon-detailed fishnet hose, strong iconic pendants and those belts all added a perfect dose of fanfare. A few best-of-show looks: the ivory wool felt topper over skinny black knit crepe pants, appliquéd with white climbing dragons; a wrapped and belted satin jacket over a long, fluid tulle skirt; a wrapped obi minidress in black satin with wide cap sleeves and a huge red dragon, and a knockout beige felted wool wrap with a bold black dragon jacquard.
Natori, who began as a lingerie designer, said her experience with intimates was another, natural influence on this collection, which was evident in a bustier, corset, pajamas and robes and, naturally, her kimonos.
The drama here was quiet; nothing was forced or trend driven, which perhaps was a reflection of the close-to-home ease the designer felt as she worked on her anniversary collection. It’s clear that history is what made this collection so successful.