Rossella Jardini is back. Two years after being deposed by Jeremy Scott at Moschino, where she served as creative director for 20 years after the death of the founder and her mentor Franco Moschino, she decided retirement wasn’t for her. She launched her own label last September, showing only retailers and clients. For fall, she returned to the official calendar, staging a cocktail party presentation in the lobby of the Grand Hotel, where guests lounged alongside three charming vignettes of models.
“I adore it,” said Jardini of the collection. “It’s me.” This venture marks the first time in a decades-long career that she’s designing for herself. The autonomy suits her. The collection had vivid energy, alive with a youthful timelessness. She put an eclectic, colorful spin on bourgeois staples, mixing the girlish and masculine and accessorizing with abandon. The models wore bejeweled headscarves and bright ruffled silk collars and cuffs that gave a quirky bohême attitude to the heightened classics.
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A gray tailored jacket with ruffled trim was worn over a traditional ivory cable knit sweater and long wide-leg khakis. A plaid tailored coat with an exaggerated, polka dot-trimmed lapel came over a lean, button-up gray knit and black-and-white patterned full midiskirt. Jardini played with nautical stripes, sailor pants and coats, decorating almost everything with playful ruffled trims, a signature that’s followed her through the years.