Girl power of the Thirties Berlin order was Max Mara’s fall muse. There was no missing it between the industrial brass, Machine Age set papered with Dada and Constructivist posters and the giddy cabaret soundtrack, much less the clownish Bauhaus-inspired portion of the collection, featuring coats in bright green, orange and yellow with contrasting black-and-white striped patch pockets.
Important to note: For all the Weimar Republic fanfare, the show still opened with a perfect camel coat. Granted, it was semi-hidden under a much flashier, oversize silver sequined coat, but it made the point that Max Mara knows where its bread is buttered: Coats galore, and lots of good, realistic ones. There were nubby camel styles and a couple of long tailored herringbones. A short, camel jacket with a boxy, workwear cut and fuzzy patch pockets was a fresh proportion.
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A runway of all-star classic coats, no matter how impeccable their double-faced cashmere and graceful cuts, would be a bit boring. Thus, the fun haus stuff for obligatory seasonal vim. A wacky apron jumpsuit — green sequins on top, pink bottoms with black-and-white pockets — and pilly, textural tailoring with the same striped pockets were a stretch. But a more sedate and luxe white fur coat, and even two bold furry styles — one cobalt, one yellow, both with striped collars — offered something new (despite the latter two’s obvious connection to Prada spring 2011) and juicy to bite into.