Amie Robertson, whose A.V. Robertson label is new to the Fashion East group show this season, made a big splash with her fall collection. She not only gathered a cast of major models — among them Edie Campbell, Lineisy Montero, Georgia Jagger and Molly Bair — but Katie Grand styled her show and Marc Jacobs, for whom Robertson had worked as a design assistant, sat in the front row.
And the clothes were great, too. They riffed on heavy striped silks — the kind usually fashioned into men’s blazers — which Robertson worked into sleek dresses in mismatching panels, or pencil skirts with sections sliced out of them, paired with satin tops in jewel tones. The designer said backstage that she’d imagined her muse as an alien who fell to earth, and embellished her looks with spiky crystal flowers, which she likened to “alien spores” bursting through the silk.
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Richard Malone and Caitlin Price showed for a second and third season respectively as part of Fashion East.
Price continued to mine the idea of up-all-night clubbers in a strong, opinionated collection. It fused sporty, urban silhouettes with rich fabrics, such as satin and silks. There was a cropped, satin padded jacket paired with a white satin maxi skirt, along with low-slung pants, patched with satin panels and worn with a pink satin bustier top.
Malone took his cues from the idea of a “fierce, tough” femininity, with designs in heavy-duty fabrics that hugged the curves of the body. Among them were pinafore dresses in a thick blue and white striped fabric, along with a futuristic looking pants and top combo, with stiff, sculptural sleeves that stood away from the body.
Mimi Wade, another newcomer to Fashion East, staged a static presentation ahead of the main show. Her lineup of glamorous, rebellious-looking women was inspired by Faye Dunaway in “Bonnie and Clyde” and Marianne Faithfull in “Girl on a Motorcycle.” The beehive-d models wore leather camisole dresses printed with images from B-movie posters, while form-fitting coats were adorned with similar motifs, and accessorized with opulent fur collars and giant Perspex earrings.