Layering was a focal point for Mitsuru Nishizaki this season. The former patternmaker for Yohji Yamamoto created clothes in simple, easy-to-wear shapes, but used his skill at cutting and piecing together contrasting fabrics to add dimension.
The offering had military, outdoor and men’s wear influences, but there were also hints of a softer, more feminine side. A black lace skirt, for example, had a lining of black and blue stripes, and was paired with a three-quarter-length-sleeve pullover in a high-tech fabric. In another look, the same lace was grafted onto an oversize sweatshirt dress, which was layered over a long oxford shirt. Some of the strongest pieces featured this splicing of contrasting looks and textiles, but in many cases they could have been stronger if Nishizaki had taken the concept a step further. Less successful were a series of shift dresses, which felt bland and uninspired, and a handful of looks in a moody floral print, which seemed out of place in a collection that otherwise featured mostly solid fabrics in neutral shades.