With plenty of dandy-inspired men’s wear making its way down the Tokyo runways, Kidill’s Hiroaki Sueyasu offered street-savvy guys something different. This season’s aesthetic teetered somewhere between hip-hop and grunge. In the former camp were extra-baggy drop-crotch shorts and costume-y get-ups such as a pants-and-jacket combo in supersize stars and circus stripes. Loose-fitting plaid shirts gave off a more muted Nineties vibe.
Sueyasu also veered off on quirky tangents that defied either category: baseball caps with cherries protruding out of them like Mickey Mouse ears, a Mandarin-style jacket and baggy shorts in blue leather and cropped jackets reminiscent of boxy pajama tops. While a few outerwear pieces — a cobalt-blue jacket with three-quarter-length sleeves, in particular — were more commercial, the collection as a whole suffered from a bit of an identity crisis. Sueyasu titled his show “Imperfect Rhyme” and that seemed apt.