Hiroki Uemura’s debut byU collection was heavy on ultragirly lace and florals, but a few borrowed-from-the-boys details added an element of swagger. The designer said he aimed to create “cute clothes for adult women” and that he was inspired by Jane Birkin’s signature “mismatched” style — most evident when he paired frilly, layered-lace dresses and skirts featuring 3-D flower appliqués with outdoorsy high-tops or boots and hooded anoraks.
While the collection had an English-garden-party vibe to it, the juxtaposition with more modern, utilitarian items kept it fresh. In particular, a multicolored tweed jacket with chunky cable-knit sleeves stood out.
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