Glenn Martens’ third women’s collection for Y/Project had less of a Goth semblance about it as the designer swerved in several directions — from sportswear influences to medieval bodices with a detour into high-waisted pants — reworking many of the fabrics from his men’s collection and adding feminine touches like crushed velvet.
Martens’ aim was to mash up teenage and adult references, which he certainly did, but with varying degrees of success. A classic beige houndstooth check looked funky as baggy pants and quirky as a low-cut minidress with a racer neckline, while his hologram latex numbers were a little too loud to read as elegant. There were doses of chic, though, like in a subtle flowing, wide-leg one-piece number in beige that was cut from an impressive 10 meters of fabric.