Maiyet, the little brand that loves to show off its big connections, returned to the runway after last season’s presentation format. For fall, David Adjaye contributed to the set design, and Bryce Dessner of The National composed the music performed by the all-female string quarter Quatuor Zaïde. While impressive collaborators, their contributions had little impact on the show.
This collection was strong on modernist romance represented by long, fluid silhouettes such as robe coats, silk shirtdresses with embroidered cuffs and belts, and a chic, languid pajamalike tuxedo. Scottish architect and designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s rose motif inspired rich graphic embroideries, his Highland roots playing out in great knits in black-and-white with ample shaggy fringe.
Scotland is just the latest stop on Maiyet’s aesthetic journey, which has been all over the map, partly because the collection’s profile is based on working with artisans from far-flung locations, but also because it is still searching for an identity for its ready-to-wear. The jewelry and accessories, greatly expanded this season with 20 new shoe styles and 20 new bags, are further along than the clothes.