“I swiped your smoking, threw on my tracksuit.” “Chic meets street, no limit.” So read the notes to Alexis Mabille’s fall show. Indeed, it was a collection of twists — both literal and figurative — with a “night sport” theme thrown in.
Most looks the designer sent down the runway had fabric actually turned on itself: a silk lamé dress twisted at the waist; a white crossover shirt with snap closures, and sweaters wrapped around like scarves. There were also trompe l’oeil twists actually printed on dresses and shirts.
Sporty-chic juxtapositions abounded and largely worked, such as a hoodie trimmed with silver fox fur and gray jersey leggings detailed with tuxedo stripes. The collection was particularly infused with street-style influences, but Mabille offered tailored options, too. Often busy, they looked best when kept simple — like the boxy, semidraped, cropped gray sweater paired with boot-cut chambray-colored flannel trousers. The weakest links? The chains dangling aimlessly from any number of outfits.