This was a cute and charming debut for Aalto, designed by Tuomas Merikoski — though perhaps a bit too cute. The contemporary line was inspired by Helsinki street culture documented by the late Finnish photographer Jouko Lehtola during the Nineties, a decade that yielded extra-wide pants, cropped tops, sheepskin parkas and graphic mohair sweaters. The clothes seemed commercially desirable in this polished show, but it all lacked some of the spontaneity and romanticism of the lost youth Merikoski referenced.