A literary reference guided Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis’ fall collection: Bertha from “Jane Eyre,” whose Jamaican heritage was a convenient foil for the label’s identity of boisterous indigenous prints and patterns, shown here in primary, Rasta-esqe color combos. The designers wanted to illustrated Bertha’s “descent into madness” with wacky details — mainly skirts layered with long fringe panels — then they tranquilized the look with austere tailoring and controlled silhouettes to illustrate Bertha’s cold, hard English reality. Plain lines and an abundance of sober gray and black wool brought a refinement to the bolder effects, but it felt sedated. Colorful details are the brand’s character.