There are rarely overarching inspirations behind Rosie Assoulin’s collections, which are marked by her monochromatic, sculptural, modern-retro silhouettes. Rather, each piece comes with its own story: Red and navy hand-crocheted sweaters in her fall lineup were sparked by “Daniel Tiger’s Neighborhood,” a children’s show on PBS she watches with her four-year-old son, and a hypnotizing evening gown in black-and-white diagonal stripes by the work of Italian architect Carlo Scarpa.
Assoulin’s offerings evolved to include more casual daywear — from a raw-edged wool zip-up jumpsuit to men’s wear shirting and reversible wool vests — but there was still plenty of that signature drama in her eveningwear, with some looks resembling flower petals and pretzel shapes in cotton faille, raw silk and velvet. Done in punchy reds, royal blues and vibrant greens, a few styles were accented with ladylike touches such as bows and white buttons, as well as oversize flower earrings made by her mother-in-law, Roxanne Assoulin.
“I mean, come on, is she having fun or what?” Assoulin asked as she buzzed around the room frenetically, motioning to a two-piece red evening look with a voluminous flared hem. Fun — as well as comfort — seems to be the main goal for the designer, whose elegant collection should secure her spot as a red carpet designer for sexy, intelligent women next season.