Rodolfo Paglialunga, creative director of Jil Sander’s main collection, let some familiar aesthetics trickle down into his first efforts for Jil Sander Navy. First was a sportswear focus, evident in quilted taffeta pieces that ranged from a tunic and matching culottes to a fit-and-flare dress — both worn over long-sleeve shirts. Second was a utilitarian punch seen in printed quilted jackets and a camo parka.
Elsewhere, a chevron jacquard in a short-sleeve dress and a trouser-and-shirt set showcased Paglialunga’s tactile and color interests and the collection’s retro undercurrent, the latter heightened by a Sixties-inspired skirt suit and a white-and-black shift worn over a color-blocked turtleneck.
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