J. Crew’s women’s collection was one of the most satisfying yet this week. Perhaps that sounds a little disingenuous directed at a vertical retailer, but the sentiment is sincere. Tom Mora’s lineup served its purpose to a T. Theoretically the clothes were inspired by Peter Schlesinger’s book “Checkered Past,” which chronicled the stylish, colorful lives of his friends David Hockney, Tina Chow and Paloma Picasso in London in the Seventies, but in practice it was about taking the right sampling of ideas, none of them groundbreaking but all current or classic, and putting them in the J. Crew context.
To some extent the lineup was one-stop shopping for a series of trends, which is not an insult. These days that’s known as a “wardrobe.” There were novelty shearlings, such as a rust-colored bomber; sweater dressing, like a matching reversed Fair Isle sweater and skirt; a pink burnished-leather fringed skirt with a striped pom-pom knit; a cozy gray sweater and flannel pants with legs so wide they looked like a skirt that had hit upon the slouchy, serene gray moment that’s going on. Mora made them look natural, personal and desirable, finessing thoughtful details and bold, happy colors — pale pink, bright yellow, purple and burgundy — through the traditional stuff that will always be the bones of the brand. Elevated classics, such as Thomas Mason shirts, a collarless denim jacket, and jeans with an undone raw hem, were some of the lineup’s best items.
For men, Frank Muytjens’ trip to a vintage Army/Navy show in the south of England made a reappearance in the retailer’s fall offerings. From a color palette heavy on green and khaki to the military details on the A-line, drop-shoulder topcoats, the J. Crew men’s design director “intertwined” this feeling throughout the lineup. Standout pieces included thick wool cargoes in a slim fit with an articulated knee, and a snorkel coat that Muytjens tweaked to make its proportion more oversize.
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J. Crew has had a challenging year, particularly in women’s apparel. Let’s see if this collection changes that.