Phillip Lim’s program notes read like an excerpt from an anthropological doctoral dissertation: “Systems are necessary to structure, in any type of convention.…I was able to readdress the systems and structures that we build along the way.” It was a rather cerebral way of explaining that he had subjected classics — trenchcoats, tailoring, pretty dresses — to some fairly vigorous deconstruction and distressing to give reliable, traditional looks some teeth. It was a solid proposition that gave a feminine, flattering baseline a tension of toughness.
The collection riffed off a current crowd-pleasing silhouette — statement coat over slim tailored pants or a soft skirt with strappy shoes — via a smart mix of references, including grungy plaids, avant asymmetric cuts, tomboy outerwear and punky utility straps twisted and tied around coats and dresses for a bondage vibe. Perhaps Lim got a little strap-happy with the latter effect, but otherwise the details added sophisticated novelty and value to understandable pieces.
For the confident, creative power babe with a bike fetish, there was an oversize trench in a wacky, webby wool pattern over a sleeveless dress with a slick molded-leather moto bodice and tailored wool skirt. For the artful traditionalist with a preference for polished casual, there was a sweeping burgundy wool-blend car coat over a distressed zip-front vest and nifty faded gray jeans with a raw-edged cuff.