After her foray into boho festival gear last season, Anna Molinari wisely took her Blugirl label back in a more sophisticated direction. Her fall collection was titled My Many Selves — a reference, the show notes explained, to the many facets of contemporary women.
The traditional romantic might go for a diaphanous, white embroidered dress worn with a baby blue sweater vest. Her androgynous counterpart could opt for a chic, light gray wool trouser suit, feminized with cropped pants and a plunge-necked gray cardigan fastened with a gold belt.
As if to illustrate the point, multicolored brogues came in both flat and high-heeled versions, to suit the mood du jour. With their burgundy, black and gold colorways, both styles were equally alluring.
The masculine-feminine play is a staple of Milan catwalks, but Molinari mixed the concept with this season’s now-obligatory riff on Seventies themes by sprinkling in flares and tunic tops. They came in prints that included a psychedelic Art Nouveau pattern and a kitschy motif of fruit and birds, like the ones you see on waxed tablecloths. The latter print was omnipresent, even popping up in the midst of a sequence of luxe hippie ensembles in brown suede, muddling the season’s message in an unnecessarily distracting way.