Georg Lux was inspired by abandoned cityscapes this season, dreaming up a collection for urban nomads. His mood board was part botanical drawings — the source of the floral prints of the season — part architectural studies featuring Brutalist buildings, structured geological formations and modernist interior design.
In pure Leonard style, Lux played heavily with vintage-inspired prints and ’60s silhouettes. While the brand’s stamp was unmistakable, there was a solid undertone this season of heavy fabrics in rich jewel tones that were a nod to Wong Kar-Wai’s “In the Mood for Love,” giving the collection a sense of moody romanticism.
Gold buttons had a role to play as ever, but they were more muted, as if with the patina of age, punctuating sailor pants and jackets. Leopard prints were done in shades of red or yellow that were bright but not loud. The runway show in the gilded, frescoed headquarters of the house, just off the Champs-Élysées, enhanced the sense of intimacy.
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As well as less glitz, Lux dialed down the fluidity for fall, with more structured pieces and a number of statement outerwear options that enveloped the body.
Graphic prints and embellishments, on dresses in various shapes, evoked the city at night as seen from the sky, like topographic patterns featuring thousands of streetlamps. The opening look, with a full skirt and matching trench coat in forest green, was embroidered with giant purple flowers and made a statement without going all out. Black jersey sheath dresses were given a single billowing sleeve in printed silk. Lux played with 3D printed faux leather, creating a floral pattern on a structured dress that fell below the knee, like a number of his dresses this season.