The Marc Jacobs fall 2023 runway show spanned about three minutes. Blink and you missed it.
Within the lengthy hallway of The New York Public Library on Monday night, Jacobs’ models quickly strutted to a snippet of the Steve Reich and Kronos Quartet tune “Different Trains.” On each showgoers’ seat was a folder of collection notes written by ChatGPT.
“The Marc Jacobs fashion show captivated audiences with its innovative approach to blending menswear-inspired tailoring with feminine aesthetics. The collection showcased impeccably tailored suits designed exclusively for women, accompanied by flat shoes, black tights and stunning altered gowns. The predominantly black and white palette created a striking visual impact, emphasizing the timeless elegance and versatility of monochrome fashion,” the introduction read. Paragraphs on “men’s suiting for women”; “flat shoes and black tights”; “altered gowns in black and white”; “the power of monochrome,” and a conclusion followed suit in repetition.
Guess this critic’s job is done.
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Yes, there were striking mannish suits with sharp, boxy or cropped proportions, and “altered gowns,” — all layered with black tights, socks and flat shoes. But what the AI-generated wordage missed was the hilarity of its point (not to mention the anti-fur protesters outside; human observation is still vital). Jacobs, always a showman, seemingly sent a cheeky message about (literal) fast fashion, fast screens (cue today’s social media attention span) and the conversation surrounding the efficiency and effects of human creativity and emotion versus the machine.
It was thrilling, and so were the clothes. Once again, Jacobs proved that fashion speaks louder than words through his fall collection, which strongly riffed on ’80s glam and New Romantics.
Those altered gowns were striking and sexy with micro hems, especially with shag haircuts by Duffy and darkly glam makeup by Diane Kendal (think Daryl Hannah in “Blade Runner,” or Debbie Harry). There were edgy little black tucked and draped numbers with strong, rounded busts; lingerie-like versions in white or green, and sheer white renditions with subtle lace trims atop circular bras and high-waisted panties. The idea extended into drapey tops with little bottoms. For instance, a white pussybow blouse look (worn undone); a sculptural black jacket with red hot vinyl draped skirt, followed by a sharp-shouldered gold blouse with black parachute pants, and an adorable black knit romper, to name a few.
Jacobs’ refreshing, strictly-to-the-point take on “masculine tailoring and feminine elegance,” blurred the lines between power dressing, glamour and ease for the modern woman. All in all — divine.