Victor Glemaud is on the move.
After six years of building his label on knitwear, he ventured into new territory with his fall show Saturday afternoon, fittingly held at the Moynihan Train Hall, where he debuted a collection of his first cut-and-sew jersey pieces.
His vision of modern eveningwear came in a pleasing color palette of café au lait chocolate brown, black, white and clementine. Sensual gowns and dresses concealed and revealed the body with asymmetric necklines, mesh cutouts and soft corsetry. Racer-back hooded tank dresses, stirrup pants and crop tops added a note of athleticism, while fur coats by Pologeorgis added a dose of diva.
The move into jersey came to Glemaud after he designed classical-modern costumes for the American Ballet Theatre’s “La Follia Variations” last April.
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“The idea was to take away all the surface texture and pattern, so you wonder is it knitwear or cut-and-sew,” Glemaud said of his approach to the new category of soft wear.
His quietly elegant approach was inspired by the 1966 film “Black Girl,” by Ousmane Sembène, who is often referred to as the father of African cinema.
“It’s about a young Senegalese woman who moves to the South of France and becomes a domestic worker, this beautiful tragic story of African immigration,” Glemaud said or the film, which has enduring style resonance.
”I found so much strength and beauty in the character and her look,” he said, referring to how main character Diouna uses her simple, polished style — including the silk kerchief tied around her coiffed hair — as a form of rebellion against her circumstances.
Glamour, the best revenge.